JUNE 25, 2020

LA CARBONARA

There are many theories and fantasies about its origins. The most popular one, although still a myth, claims that when the charcoal burners (carbonai), arrived home after a long day of hard work, they recharged their energy with a tasty dish made of local ingredients, thus giving origin to the pasta alla carbonara.

The gastronomy scholars argue that similar recipes existed in cooking books of Italian cuisine in 1800, however it was not until 1955 where it appears for the first time in the book, "The signora in cucina" of Felix Dessì, a recipe with the name of La carbonara.

 The origin

The hypothesis that seems to be more plausible, but still not fully confirmed, tells of the birth of the famous pasta during the dopoguerra, in 1944, when a young chef of Bologna, Renato Gualandi, was then hired to cook up a feast for a reunion between British and American troops in the city of Riccione, which had just been liberated. Gualandi prepared a dish using what he considered were the American soldiers’ favorite ingredients, amongst those he had at his disposal: eggs, bacon and cheese. The plate was his golden ticket to become the Head Chef of the allied troops based in Rome. During that period, Gualandi continued to prepare the now popular pasta, and that was the beginning of the diffusion of the Carbonara in the Italian capital.

The recipe

The theory that the carbonara was an invention created for the Americans by a Bolognese chef caused skepticism among the roman purists. Though one thing is certain, between that first recipe published in 1955, and the dish that is cooked today in the trattorie romane, there are big differences.

 In the first publications, including the Gualandi’s version, these were the ingredients listed: bacon (pancetta), cream milk, eggs, cheese and pepper. Then, in 1960, Luigi Carnacina in the book “La grande cucina”, replaced for the first time the pancetta for guanciale.

Aside from the cream milk, other ingredients, such as wine, onion, garlic, parsley started to appear as different variations of the dish, and it was not until 1990 when the Romans decided to concentrate rigorously in only four ingredients that constitute today the famous Carbonara: eggs (mainly the yolks), guanciale, cheese (pecorino romano DOP, in some cases, mixed with a small percentage of parmigiano reggiano DOP) and black pepper.

The cream milk (panna) diffused in the 80s, inside and outside of Italy, not only disappeared from the recipe, but its presence today in the carbonara represents almost an insult to the Italian culinary tradition.

 Where to eat it

If you are visiting the Italian capital, try a vera carbonara, is as must as knowing the most famous of the Roman fountains. Here three of our favorite spots to enjoy it:

• Trattoria l’avvolgibile

 @laavvolgibile

 Circonvallazione appia 56, 00179 Rome.

•   Osteria di Monteverde

 @osteriadimonteverde_

 Via Pietro Cartoni 163/165, 00152 Rome.

  Santo Palato

 @santopalatoroma

 Piazza Tarquinia 4/A/B, 00153 Rome.